We had a very enjoyable visit to Carlisle Cathedral recently, not my first, or second - but I still feel there is a great deal more to discover about this marvellous building.
There were only three cathedrals in the whole North of England in Medieval Times, after the Normans had wiped-out or impoverished most of the population - and of these Durham and York are by far the most famous architecturally, and indeed internationally. Nonetheless; Carlisle has all kinds of wonderful stuff, and a fascinating history - and should not be missed!
Above is the East Window which is an enormous creation in the Decorated (middle-gothic, about 1350) style. It is perhaps the largest, most complex ancient stained glass window; and a great favourite among those who especially admire such things.
More than any other similar window, this seems living and growing.
Standing outside, we were fascinated by the extraordinarily organic - branching, curving, stone tracery - enclosing the stained glass; much of which is also medieval in its upper parts, having survived the iconoclastic eras of Edward VI and Cromwell - and misguided Victoria Restorers (albeit without the Victorian piety and energy, many of our oldest churches would have been lost altogether).
This is St Augustine and the devil, with some Middle English dialect doggerel verse:
One of the loveliest effects is produced by the Victorian barrel-vaulted Choir, with its starry painted ceiling.
And in the choir stalls are many Chaucerian era, and Canterbury Tales-like themed, carved-oak misericord seats; such as a wife (of Bath?) beating her husband with a butter paddle:
And a mermaid with mirror, symbolic of Vanity:
The West end of the cathedral (which used to be the nave) is Norman, but got partially demolished by the Scots Presbytarians during the Civil war of the mid 1600s - but a fair bit survives.
Many of the originally-semi-circular Romanesque arches are tremendously distorted by differential subsidence of adjacent pillars:
Here is a view through such a distorted Norman Arch of the 11th century; into the Early English, pointed-arches of the current aisles - from the 12th century:
Note: The photos aren't mine, but were pillaged from the interwebs.
2 comments:
Very informative and enjoyable. I visited a few churches and cathedrals during my brief stint in England, but I am beginning to realize that I was merely scratching the surface. We have some nice cathedrals here in Hungary, but the current versions of most churches date from the 18th or 19th centuries (rebuilt from originals that were destroyed or burned down).
@Frank - thanks. I have always greatly enjoyed churches and cathedrals, but am finding that a bit of architectural knowledge and a more detailed examination is enhancing and revitalizing this appreciation. On the one hand I admire those which are a coherent expression of a particular period and vision (including the Victorian Neo-Gothic - of which I am very fond), and on the other the buildings like Carlisle C that embody history in their structure.
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